As the days grow shorter and the Icelandic summer fades, the sheep begin their journey back from the highlands. Historically, the onset of fall in Iceland was marked by “Réttir,” the traditional roundup of sheep that had spent the summer months roaming freely in the highlands.

What is Réttir?

Réttir, one of Iceland’s oldest cultural practices, takes place in September. Over weekends, farmers, families, and friends gather across the country to retrieve the sheep from the mountains. Don’t worry, it’s not all hard work; the day is followed by evening festivities of dancing and singing, known as réttarball.

Experiencing Réttir

Experiencing réttir for the first time can be a bit daunting, but fear not, here is Hey Iceland’s etiquette guide to this favourite Icelandic tradition.

Background

Icelanders are very proud of their agricultural heritage and even more so of their lamb meat, which according to this writer is the very best in the world… probably. Roaming free gives the meat unparalleled freshness, free of the livestock flavours that one finds so often in industrial farming, but perhaps a tad more gamey, reminiscent of venison for some. And by some, I mean me.

Typically born in the spring and early summer, lambs and their mothers are released into the mountains by farmers early to mid-summer. They roam freely in the pastures while the farmers focus on tending the land and bringing in the harvest. Marinating themselves in the mountain, the lambs come down in the fall much heavier and plumper, costing the farmer minimal work and feed.

The Process

If a farm carries sheep and uses their right to graze the sheep on communal land known as “Afréttur,” they are by law required to supply someone to go for a few days into the highlands to round up the entire livestock and bring them down to be sorted. This task, often referred to as “göngur” or “walkies” for lack of a better term, involves a group of people traveling on foot, often accompanied by their sheepdogs, horseback riding, or ATVs, under the firm guidance of the Mountain King, or “fjallkóngur,” an honorary local position in areas with mountain sheep. Regardless of the weather, rain, sun, snow, or sleet, they gather all the sheep and bring them down to the lowlands. This can take several days, as the sheep roam in large vast areas. When the sheep are herded down to the lowlands, they often need to cross the ring road, which can lead to brief traffic jams. If you encounter this, please be patient and take in the beautiful scenery. The sight of the final approach into the county pen is often quite remarkable. The process will go more smoothly if the shepherds have the space they need to gather the sheep without any interruptions.

The Event

The actual réttir event is exactly that, sorting the sheep into different pens depending on which farm they belong to. Families and friends gather to collect their sheep, which are herded into circular pens designed with a central area and radiating sections, resembling the spokes of a wheel. All sheep are initially herded into the central pen, and then farmers and community members work together to sort them into their respective sections based on unique ear markings. This process often requires physically grabbing the sheep by their horns and guiding them to the correct pen.

This is usually where the fun starts. If you wish to experience this firsthand, you can find details on where and when to attend in each region through published schedules. To participate in réttir, contact the farmers to see if they need help; they will then instruct you on how to gather their sheep. Please make sure that you don’t run into the central pen and start grabbing sheep. It might seem like an open-free-for-all chaos, but trust us, it’s not. You need knowledge of the markings, farm names, etc., so the only “right” way to participate is to introduce yourself to a farmer and let them guide you.

Celebrating the rounding up of the sheep from the mountains with Icelandic farmers and locals is guaranteed to be one unique experience you won’t forget. This tradition is a wonderful way to connect with Icelandic culture and understand the country’s strong ties to nature and farming.

Make the most of the experience and book your stay at a working farm. Check out our farm-stay options here. 

Sheep being gathered in the central pen for sorting. 

In Short:

• Cultural Significance: Deeply rooted tradition in Icelandic culture, réttir is not just an agricultural event but a social one for the farming communities. For Icelanders, it’s a symbol of resilience and cooperation. It reflects the deep connection between the people and their land, showcasing the importance of agriculture in Icelandic life. The tradition has evolved over the years, but its core values remain unchanged. It is often followed by a celebration with food, drink, and even singing. It’s an opportunity for farmers to catch up, and for younger generations to learn and be part of the tradition.
• Visitor Experience: Tourists can sometimes participate in or observe réttir, which offers a unique glimpse into rural Icelandic life. Make sure you get approval from a farmer before running into the pen. At this time of year, when sheep arrive in the lowland, keep a close watch on the road, as sheep frequently wander onto it.
• Timing: Réttir typically occur in September, varying slightly depending on the region and weather conditions. The farmers journal, Bændablaðið publishes a list of them, usually late August, a list of Réttir 2024 can be seen here.

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